How do you print with TM3D PETG?
PETG combines good impact resistance and layer adhesion with the ease of use of a relatively easy-to-print material. In this guide, you will find our recommended settings, tips for a good first layer, and solutions to common PETG printing problems.
The most important PETG settings
Use these settings as a starting point. The ideal values may vary slightly depending on the printer, nozzle, print surface, and print speed.
What is PETG?
A strong and versatile filament for functional parts, prototypes, and everyday use.
PETG stands for polyethylene terephthalate glycol-modified. The material combines good impact resistance and strong layer adhesion with relatively easy processing. PETG is therefore suitable for parts that need to withstand more stress than standard PLA.
Advantages of PETG
- Strong adhesion between print layers
- Good impact resistance
- Less brittle than standard PLA
- Good chemical resistance
- Relatively low risk of warping
- Suitable for functional parts
Suitable applications
- Enclosures and protective covers
- Brackets and mounting parts
- Functional prototypes
- Machine and workshop parts
- Parts for damp environments
- Everyday household items
Recommended print settings for PETG
Start with the values below and then adjust one setting at a time.
| Setting | Recommended value | Explanation |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzle temperature | 230–260 °C | Start around 240–245 °C and increase the temperature at high print speeds or when layer adhesion is poor. |
| Print bed | 70–80 °C | Ensures a reliable first layer and reduces corner lifting. |
| First layer | 15–30 mm/s | A steady first layer gives PETG enough time to adhere properly. |
| Other layers | 40–180 mm/s | Depending on the printer, hotend, nozzle, and volumetric capacity. |
| First-layer fan | 0% | No cooling during the first layer usually provides the best adhesion. |
| Fan for other layers | 0–10% | Limited cooling promotes strong layer adhesion. Use more cooling only for bridges and difficult overhangs. |
| Flow | Approximately 0.95–1.00 | Start with the standard profile and calibrate the flow when surfaces are printed too full or too thin. |
| Nozzle | From 0.4 mm | A standard brass nozzle is suitable for normal, unfilled PETG. |
Preparing the printer
A clean build plate and dry filament are especially important when printing with PETG.
How to achieve a good first layer
PETG should adhere well, but should not be pressed unnecessarily hard into the build plate.
You can recognize a good first layer by:
- The print lines connect neatly to one another
- The filament adheres across the entire surface
- The lines are slightly flattened
- No open spaces form between the lines
- Little material remains on the nozzle
Check the following in case of poor adhesion:
- Whether the print bed is clean and free of grease
- Whether the Z-offset is not set too high
- Whether the bed is at least 70 °C
- Whether the first layer is printed slowly enough
- Whether the fan is off during the first layer
Useful slicer settings
These settings have a major impact on the part’s strength, surface quality, and print duration.
| Part | Starting value | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Layer height | 0.20 mm | Good balance between quality and print speed with a 0.4 mm nozzle. |
| Wall lines | 3–4 | Additional wall lines generally make functional parts stronger. |
| Top and bottom layers | 4–6 | Creates solid surfaces and prevents visible infill. |
| Infill | 15–30% | Suitable for most functional and lightly loaded parts. |
| Infill for heavily loaded part | 30–50% | Use more infill when the part is subjected to greater mechanical stress. |
| Maximum volumetric speed | 12–16 mm³/s | A safe starting range. Fast printers may be able to be set higher after calibration. |
| Support angle | 45–55° | PETG can adhere strongly to supports. Leave sufficient distance between the support and the model. |
| Brim | 5–10 mm | Only needed for small contact areas or long, narrow models. |
Adjusting the nozzle temperature
The best PETG temperature depends on the print speed, nozzle, and hotend.
Temperature may be too low
- Poor adhesion between the layers
- Rough or matte extrusion
- The extruder is clicking or skipping steps
- The material comes out of the nozzle unevenly
- The part breaks easily between the layers
Temperature may be too high
- A lot of stringing or thin strands
- Sagging overhangs and bridges
- Details are merging together
- Material remains stuck to the nozzle
- Excessive gloss or small material buildups
Solving common PETG problems
Click on a problem to view the possible causes and solutions.
The print does not adhere to the print bed
- Thoroughly clean the print bed and remove all grease.
- Check the bed leveling and Z offset.
- Reduce the first-layer speed.
- Use a bed temperature of 70–80 °C.
- Turn the fan completely off during the first layer.
- Use a brim for a small contact area.
There is a lot of stringing between parts
- First, check whether the filament is dry.
- Reduce the nozzle temperature in 5 °C increments.
- Calibrate the retraction settings.
- If necessary, increase the travel speed.
- Limit unnecessary travel moves across open spaces.
- Check that the nozzle is not leaking due to improper installation.
Material remains stuck to the nozzle
- Check that the first layer is not being pressed down too hard.
- Carefully clean the outside of the nozzle.
- Check the flow for over-extrusion.
- Slightly lower the nozzle temperature.
- Check whether the filament is dry.
The extruder is clicking or skipping steps
- Check whether the nozzle is partially clogged.
- Slightly increase the nozzle temperature.
- Reduce the print speed or volumetric speed.
- Check the tension of the extruder gear.
- Check that the filament unwinds freely from the spool.
The layers are not bonding well to each other
- Increase the nozzle temperature by 5–10 °C.
- Reduce the print speed.
- Reduce the fan speed.
- Use more wall lines.
- Check whether the filament is dry.
Corners or edges are lifting
- Clean the print bed again.
- Use a brim around the model.
- Avoid cold drafts around the printer.
- Slightly increase the bed temperature.
- Turn off the fan during the first layers.
Overhangs and bridges sag
- Temporarily increase cooling for bridges.
- Slightly lower the nozzle temperature.
- Reduce the speed of bridges and overhangs.
- Use support for steep overhangs.
- Check that the layer height is not too large.
The surface is rough or contains small holes
- Dry the filament before continuing to print.
- Calibrate the flow or extrusion multiplier.
- Reduce the print speed.
- Check the nozzle for contamination.
- Check whether the material crackles during printing.
The print adheres too strongly to the print bed
- Allow the print plate to cool completely.
- Use a suitable adhesive as a release layer.
- Increase the Z offset slightly.
- Carefully detach a flexible print plate.
- Do not use excessive force on glass or a delicate coating.
The part dimensions are incorrect
- Calibrate the flow and check for over-extrusion.
- Check the dimensions of the 3D model.
- Use the slicer's compensation settings.
- Check the belt tension and motion axes.
- First print a dimensionally accurate calibration model.
Storing and drying PETG
PETG can absorb moisture from the air. Moist filament often causes stringing and an uneven print surface.
Storing PETG properly
- Store the spool in a sealed bag or dry box
- Add sufficient desiccant
- Store the filament in a dry place
- Do not leave the spool open unnecessarily long
- Reseal the packaging immediately after use
Signs of moist PETG
- Crackling or popping sounds
- Many thin strings between parts
- Small holes in the print surface
- Rough or inconsistent extrusion
- Material coming out of the nozzle unevenly
Material properties of TM3D PETG
The data below provides a general overview of the material.
| Material | PETG |
|---|---|
| Filament diameter | 1.75 mm or 2.85 mm, depending on the selected version |
| Density | Approximately 1.27 g/cm³ |
| Recommended nozzle temperature | 230–260 °C |
| Recommended print bed temperature | 70–80 °C |
| Recommended fan | 0–10%, except for bridges and steep overhangs |
| Heated print chamber | Not necessary |
| Suitable nozzle | Standard brass nozzle for regular, unfilled PETG |
| Use | Functional parts, enclosures, prototypes, holders, and parts used for technical applications |
The exact properties may vary slightly by color, variant, and testing method. For technical applications, always consult the current technical data sheet.
Safe printing with PETG
Always ensure a safe and properly equipped workspace when 3D printing.
- Ensure adequate ventilation in the printing area.
- Do not touch the hot nozzle or heated print bed.
- Do not leave a printer operating unattended unnecessarily.
- Keep the printer away from flammable materials.
- Do not automatically use printed parts for food contact, medical applications, or safety-critical applications.
- Refer to the safety data sheet for additional product information.
Frequently asked questions about PETG
Can I print TM3D PETG with a standard PETG profile?
Yes. First choose your printer’s standard or Generic PETG profile. Use a nozzle temperature within the range of 230–260 °C and a print bed temperature of 70–80 °C.
Which settings should I use on a Bambu Lab printer?
Choose Generic PETG as a starting point. A good starting point is a nozzle temperature of approximately 235–250 °C, a print bed temperature of 70–80 °C, and normal fan cooling of no more than 0–10%. Calibrate the flow and maximum volumetric speed for the best results.
Do I need an enclosed printer?
No. PETG can be printed well with an open printer. However, avoid strong cold drafts blowing directly across the print bed.
Why does PETG cause more stringing than PLA?
PETG is printed at a higher temperature and absorbs moisture relatively easily. Therefore, first check whether the filament is dry, then adjust the temperature and retraction.
Can PETG be used outdoors?
PETG is moisture-resistant and suitable for many outdoor applications. For parts exposed to strong sunlight and UV radiation for extended periods, ASA is generally a better choice.
Which nozzle can I use?
For standard PETG, a standard 0.4 mm brass nozzle is a good choice. For filled PETG variants, such as PETG with carbon fiber, a wear-resistant nozzle may be necessary.
Why does PETG keep sticking to my nozzle?
This is often caused by a Z-offset that is too low, over-extrusion, damp filament, or a nozzle temperature that is too high. First check the first layer, then calibrate the flow.
Ready to print with PETG?
Discover the range of TM3D PETG filament, produced in the Netherlands and available in various colors, diameters, and spool sizes.
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