How do you print with TM3D ABS?
ABS is a strong, impact-resistant, and more heat-resistant filament for functional parts and technical applications. In this guide, you will find our recommended settings, tips for preventing warping, and solutions to common ABS printing problems. Set the printer to GENERIC ABS SETTINGS.
The most important ABS settings
Use these settings as a starting point. The ideal values may vary slightly depending on the printer, nozzle, build plate, and print speed.
What is ABS?
A strong technical filament for functional parts that need to withstand more heat and mechanical stress.
ABS stands for acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. The material is known for its impact resistance, strength, and higher temperature resistance compared with standard PLA. ABS is widely used for technical parts, housings, prototypes, and products that still need to be sanded, glued, or post-processed after printing.
Advantages of ABS
- Good impact resistance
- Less brittle than standard PLA
- Higher temperature resistance
- Suitable for functional parts
- Easy to sand and machine
- Suitable for gluing and chemical post-processing
Suitable applications
- Housings and protective covers
- Machine parts
- Functional prototypes
- Holders and mounting parts
- Parts for indoor use
- Parts that must withstand heat
Recommended print settings for ABS
Start with the values below, then adjust one setting at a time.
| Setting | Recommended value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzle temperature | 240–260 °C | Start at around 250 °C and adjust the temperature based on print speed and layer adhesion. |
| Print bed | 90–110 °C | A heated print bed reduces shrinkage and helps prevent corners from lifting. |
| First layer | 15–30 mm/s | A slow first layer provides better adhesion. |
| Other layers | 40–150 mm/s | Depending on the printer, hotend, nozzle, model size, and desired quality. |
| First-layer fan | 0% | Cooling during the first layer increases the risk of poor adhesion and warping. |
| Fan for other layers | 0-10% | For ABS, preferably leave normal part cooling off. Use only limited cooling when it is genuinely needed for bridges. |
| Print chamber | Enclosed and heated | A stable ambient temperature helps prevent shrinkage and cracking between layers. |
| Nozzle | From 0.4 mm | A standard brass nozzle is suitable for normal, unfilled ABS. |
Preparing the printer
A stable temperature and good bed adhesion are especially important with ABS.
How to achieve a good first layer
A good first layer is essential to prevent an ABS print from coming loose during printing.
You can recognize a good first layer by:
- The print lines touch each other neatly
- The filament adheres across the entire surface
- The lines are pressed flat evenly
- No gaps form between the lines
- The edges remain flat on the build plate
Check the following if adhesion is poor:
- Whether the print bed is clean and free of grease
- Whether the Z-offset is set correctly
- Whether the print bed is at least 90 °C
- Whether the first layer is printed slowly enough
- Whether the fan is completely turned off
- Whether cold air is flowing past the printer
Why an enclosed print chamber is important
ABS shrinks as it cools. An enclosed print chamber keeps the temperature around the model more stable.
Benefits of an enclosed printer
- Fewer temperature differences
- Reduced risk of warping
- Better adhesion between layers
- Reduced risk of cracks in tall models
- More reliable printing of large parts
Avoid during printing:
- Opening doors and panels
- Air conditioning directed at the printer
- An open window next to the printer
- Strong temperature fluctuations
- Removing a hot print immediately
Useful slicer settings
These settings have a major influence on the part's strength, shrinkage, and print quality.
| Part | Starting value | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Layer height | 0.20 mm | Good balance between quality and print speed with a 0.4 mm nozzle. |
| Wall lines | 3–5 | More wall lines generally make functional parts stronger. |
| Top and bottom layers | 4–6 | Creates closed and stronger surfaces. |
| Infill | 15–30% | Suitable for most functional and lightly loaded parts. |
| Infill for heavily loaded part | 30–50% | Use more infill when the part is subjected to greater mechanical loads. |
| Brim | 5–15 mm | Increases adhesion and reduces the risk of corners lifting. |
| Fan | 0% | For most ABS prints, no part cooling provides the best layer adhesion. |
| Support distance | Printer-dependent | Choose sufficient distance so that the support can be removed easily after printing. |
Adjusting the nozzle temperature
The best ABS temperature depends on the print speed, nozzle, and hotend.
Temperature may be too low
- Poor layer adhesion
- Rough or matte extrusion
- The extruder is clicking or skipping steps
- The part cracks between the layers
- The material comes out of the nozzle inconsistently
Temperature may be too high
- A lot of stringing or thin strands
- Sagging overhangs and bridges
- Details run into each other
- Material leaks from the nozzle during travel moves
- The surface becomes unnecessarily glossy or soft
Solving common ABS problems
Click a problem to view the possible causes and solutions.
The corners of the print lift up
- Thoroughly clean and degrease the print bed.
- Use a 5 to 15 mm brim.
- Increase the print bed temperature.
- Turn the fan off completely.
- Use an enclosed print chamber.
- Avoid cold drafts around the printer.
Cracks form between the layers
- Increase the nozzle temperature by 5–10 °C.
- Reduce the print speed.
- Turn the fan off completely.
- Increase the temperature in the print chamber.
- Keep the doors and panels closed during printing.
- Allow the print to cool down slowly after printing.
The print does not adhere to the print bed
- Clean and degrease the print bed.
- Check the bed leveling and Z-offset.
- Lower the first-layer speed.
- Use a bed temperature of 90–110 °C.
- Use a suitable adhesive layer for ABS.
- Turn off the fan during the first layer.
The extruder is clicking or skipping steps
- Check whether the nozzle is partially clogged.
- Slightly increase the nozzle temperature.
- Lower the print speed or volumetric speed.
- Check the tension of the extruder gear.
- Check that the filament unwinds freely from the spool.
A lot of strings form between parts
- Reduce the nozzle temperature in 5 °C increments.
- Calibrate the retraction settings.
- Check that the filament is dry.
- Increase the travel speed if necessary.
- Limit unnecessary movements over open spaces.
Overhangs and bridges sag
- Reduce the speed of bridges and overhangs.
- Slightly reduce the nozzle temperature.
- Use a small amount of cooling only for bridges.
- Use support for severe overhangs.
- Reduce the layer height if necessary.
The surface is rough or contains small holes
- Check whether the filament has absorbed moisture.
- Dry the filament if necessary.
- Calibrate the flow or extrusion multiplier.
- Reduce the print speed.
- Check the nozzle for contamination.
The part deforms while cooling
- Allow the print to cool in the enclosed printer.
- Do not open the print chamber immediately after printing.
- Do not remove the part until the build plate has cooled.
- Avoid large temperature differences.
- For large parts, adjust the design or orientation.
The part dimensions are incorrect
- Take ABS shrinkage into account.
- Calibrate the flow and check for overextrusion.
- Check the dimensions of the 3D model.
- Use the slicer's compensation settings.
- First print a dimensionally accurate calibration model.
Storing and drying ABS
ABS can absorb moisture from the air. Damp filament can reduce print quality and layer adhesion.
Properly storing ABS
- Store the spool in a sealed bag or drybox
- Add sufficient desiccant
- Store the filament in a dry place
- Do not leave the spool open unnecessarily long
- Reseal the packaging immediately after use
Signs of damp ABS
- Crackling or popping sounds
- Small holes in the print surface
- Rough or inconsistent extrusion
- More stringing than normal
- Reduced adhesion between layers
Material properties of TM3D ABS
The information below provides a general overview of the material.
| Material | ABS |
|---|---|
| Filament diameter | 1.75 mm or 2.85 mm, depending on the selected version |
| Density | Approximately 1.04 g/cm³ |
| Recommended nozzle temperature | 240–260 °C |
| Recommended print bed temperature | 90–110 °C |
| Recommended fan | 0% |
| Enclosed print chamber | Highly recommended |
| Suitable nozzle | Standard brass nozzle for normal, unfilled ABS |
| Use | Functional parts, housings, prototypes, machine parts, and parts requiring higher temperature resistance |
The exact properties may vary slightly by color, variant, and test method. For technical applications, always consult the current technical data sheet.
Safe printing with ABS
Ensure a safe and well-ventilated workspace when printing with ABS.
- Ensure sufficient ventilation or suitable air extraction.
- Preferably do not place the printer in a living or sleeping area.
- Do not touch the hot nozzle or heated print bed.
- Do not leave a printer operating unattended unnecessarily.
- Keep the printer away from flammable materials.
- Do not automatically use printed parts for food contact, medical applications, or safety-critical applications.
- Consult the safety data sheet for additional product information.
Frequently asked questions about ABS
Can I print TM3D ABS with a standard ABS profile?
Yes. First select your printer's standard or Generic ABS profile. Use a nozzle temperature within the range of 240–260 °C and a print bed temperature of 90–110 °C.
Do I need an enclosed printer for ABS?
An enclosed printer is strongly recommended. The stable temperature in the print chamber reduces warping and lowers the risk of cracks between the layers.
Should the fan be on or off when printing ABS?
Preferably leave normal fan cooling turned off. Excessive cooling can cause shrinkage, poor layer adhesion, and cracking. Limited cooling may only be necessary for difficult bridges.
Why does my ABS print warp?
Warping occurs because ABS shrinks as it cools. Use a heated print bed, an enclosed print chamber, and a brim, and avoid cold air currents.
Can ABS be used outdoors?
ABS can be used outdoors, but it is less resistant to prolonged UV exposure. For parts that remain outdoors permanently, ASA is usually a better choice.
Which nozzle can I use?
For standard ABS, a standard 0.4 mm brass nozzle is a good choice. For filled ABS variants, a wear-resistant nozzle may be required.
Why does my tall ABS print crack between the layers?
This is usually caused by an ambient temperature that is too low or significant temperature differences. Keep the print chamber closed, turn off the fan, and optionally increase the nozzle temperature.
Ready to print with ABS?
Discover the TM3D ABS filament range, produced in the Netherlands and available in various colors, diameters, and spool sizes.
View all ABS filaments